The author, ice axe testing in Alaska last spring.
The ice axe is as much a mountain tool as it is a universal symbol for mountain climbing. You may find yourself on this page because you are shopping for a first ice axe or want to expand your knowledge of these tools and the modern options available. An ice axe, in the context of modern technical skiing, is quite a different beast relative to the wooden-handled, wedge-headed mountaineering axes of years past.
A healthy spread- Left to Right: Blue Ice Hummingbird, Camp Corsa Nanotech, BD Venom LT, Petzl Gully, Blue Ice Akila
Ice axe anatomy
Pick: The “blade” of the axe, used to swing into ice or during a self-arrest maneuver. There are two main pick shapes available for ski axes. A classic curved pick works best for self-arrest and snow climbing, while a sharp, recurved pick works best for steep ice and névé climbing but is less predictable in a self-arrest situation.
Skinny, fat, classic downward curve, recurved, picks come in many shapes and sizes for different specialties.
Adze: Most general mountaineering axes come with an adze. An adze works great for chopping a ledge, digging a snow anchor, or perhaps chopping steps if you forget crampons. Many modern ski axes have an adze that is too small to accomplish any serious excavation.
Adze. A bigger adze is more effective for moving “material.” Many axes skimp on the adze size to save weight—this seems fine most of the time.
Hammer: Often available on more technical tools with a recurve pick. Useful for placing or checking piton anchors. Hammer quality is quite wide-ranging in the ski axe world, from excellent to small and weak.
A few different takes on hammers. Note that the BD on the left is removable.
Shaft: A curved shaft provides some knuckle clearance when swinging into steeper ice. A straight shaft is better for plunging into snow. Curved tools often have an adjustable pommel/pinky rest to further improve ice climbing capabilities. Because we often only use our axes in steep terrain, short axes are easy to maneuver and save weight – no need for an axe longer than ~50cm for most skiing.
Shafts. Lots of colors, textures, and shapes here. Generally, more curve = more suitable for steep terrain/ice.
Spike: Again, a wide variety of spikes are available on ski axes. The lightest is a diagonal cut-off at the end of the aluminum shaft—this works fine in soft snow but is often useless in firm conditions. Many axes add some sort of steel end piece to improve plunging capability.
Steel spikes. Great for firm snow plunging, but unfriendly to puffy jackets and backpacks.
Cutoff style spikes—plenty effective in softer snow. A plastic plug is important in the end of the hollow shaft to prevent snow ingress and weight gain.
Ultimately, choosing an ice axe is all about compromise. An axe with a sharp, steel spike, effective hammer/adze, recurved steel pick and adjustable pommel (See Blue Ice Akila) is extremely effective but an inevitable weight gain relative to an axe with an aluminum head, cutoff spike, and tiny adze (see Camp Corsa). Last year, Black Diamond released the Venom LT—a Jack of All trades, but master of none. With a replaceable pick, removable hammer and pommel, plus a decent steel spike, it can be configured to work well for most outings; all while coming in under 250g in its lightest configuration.
The Venom LT ticks many boxes as far as versatility goes.
As the winter progresses, we plan to publish detailed comparisons of many of the top choices for technical skiing tools and ultralight mountaineering axes. Since the introduction of the Petzl Gully six or so years ago, the options for extremely lightweight highly capable ice tools have flourished. From the extremely light Ice Rock Idol to the heavier but rock solid Blue Ice Akila, we are working on gathering all the relevant options to put to the test this season
Gotta say, BD seems to have knocked it out of the park with the Venom Lt. Less than 10 grams over a Petzl Ride buys you a real spike and replaceable pick (not that I use mine enough to need that)?
And then there is the versatility: get the add ons, and reconfigure it for each trip.