Subscribe

A Primer on Removing a Stripped Binding Screw

By

The High Route Editors

The mere thought of a stripped binding screw brings back the horrors of f-bombs past. In The High Route’s Bend HQ, we habitually do ski bench work on the heirloom kitchen table. I think the dogs are forever damaged from the virulent f-bombs tossed around each time I’ve attempted to loosen an overtightened T-20 screw,…

Responses

  1. Gavin Hess

    I’ve had much better luck with the slightly more expensive “impacted rated” t-20 bits not snapping off-learned this after the last adjustment plate screw debacle that went down in the WIlson HQ a few year back

  2. Louis Dawson

    Hi all, I’ve removed hundreds of messed up binding screws over the years. Much of the time, the key is heat. At the least, heat the binding and ski so they’re hot to the touch. Beyond that, use the butt end of a spinning drill bit, or a soldering iron, to heat the screw in a more isolated fashion. If you do it right, despite lack of driver grip the screw will require very little torque for removal, and come out like it’s in butter. Brute force from an impact driver is fine, but add heat to the process. Lou

    1. Jason Albert

      Hey Lou, thanks for jumping in here with some info. Question about heat source, application of heat source, and, efficacy with different types of glue. I’ve used a solder iron in the past (with wood glue applied in the screw holes) and had mixed luck. Maybe I’m being too impatient. Anyhow, would love to get your thoughts here, and wonder about your experience with heat guns—if, in fact, you are using one. Hope it is a good day in RFV.

Leave a Reply

Latest Features