From L-R: BD Alpine Guide, Edelrid NanoJul , and Petzl Reversino.
Skinny ropes and the devices that make them functional for repelling—we’re testing some new tools like the Edelrid NanoJul.
Please do your homework by reading this post before you dive in below.
Spring 2025 update to the skinny rope rappel devices landscape. I have a few updates, some old and some new. It’s great to see some companies leaning in and serving the ski world—both canyoning and climbing brands have continued to step up their offerings.
Most notable here is a new device from Edelrid, the NanoJul. Despite its name, this is not an assisted braking device like the others in the “Jul” family but a simple mini-tube-style device. This NanoJul is the smallest of the tube-style devices listed here, including the Reversino. The NanoJul weighs 78g and has a full steel construction with aggressive teeth on one side, providing lots of friction. Depending on ropes and location, I’ve had a mix of great and mediocre results with the NanoJul. On a single strand or when using extra slick/skinny ropes like a Petzl Pur Line or Marlow R8, the NanoJul is excellent, providing enough friction for a terror-free rope sliding experience.
From L-R: BD Alpine Guide, Edelrid NanoJul , and Petzl Reversino.
Meanwhile, on a double strand of thicker ropes like Edelrid Rap Line or Glacier Black PoliWog, the friction can be a bit too much, depending on the carabiner it’s paired with: the Petzl Rocha or Grivel Plume HMS does well here, while a normal Grivel Plume or Edelrid Pure is perfect when you desire some extra friction.
My second update is adding the Petzl Reversino to our database. The Reversino strikes a nice balance between the high-friction environment of the NanoJul and the sometimes too-low friction of the BD Alpine ATC. It has become my no-brainer go-to for most rappelling needs so long as I don’t have plans for a steep single-strand rappel. For the steep single-strand rappel, the Reversino works but requires a long extension and firm grip. It’s too bad the Reversino is no longer available. The Reversino weighs 58g.
On the left, the Edelrid Mago 8 and right, the CE4Y Devil Mini.
Last, while I haven’t been using the Mago 8 much this winter, it is still a good option. I wanted to add a photo of a lower friction mode that I have found helpful for lower-angle rappels on double strands. (See photos below.) Similarly, I’m experimenting with another mini-figure 8 device option, the CE4Y Devil Mini. It’s a little heavier and bulkier than the Mago 8, but these devices provide lots of adjustability and allow for some added margin when using slick and skinny ropes.
The Edelrid nanoJul setup with the Petzl Rocha Screw Lock.
The venerable Petzl Reversino and Petzl Rocha Screw Lock.
The Edelrid Mago 8 in a lower-friction mode.
