We received a comment on Rappelling on Skinny Ropes—Part 1: Devices from a reader asking about using a Super Münter hitch to rappel on a skinny rope. Let’s break down some basics, and then get into a text thread between Billy Haas, Adam Fabrikant, and Gavin Hess.
The basic Münter hitch is a “hitch” clipped into (ideally) a specific carabiner (more on this later) that provides friction on the line/rope when either rappelling or belaying. The Münter hitch is useful as it is reversible—line can be fed in and out from the carabiner depending on the application. In short, understanding how to use a Münter pays dividends if you accidentally drop your dedicated belay/rappel device.
The downside of the Münter is the twisting introduced to the rope in either direction—belaying or rappelling. But again, in a dropped-device-scenario, a twisted rope is worth the cost of inadequate friction.
The Super Münter is an iteration of the Münter that essentially creates a Münter on top of (or stacked) on a Münter. In this case, the friction is increased substantially, and, in practice, twists the rope slightly less than a straight up Münter. This increased friction makes it a possible consideration for rappelling the skinny ropes discussed in the “Rappelling on skinny ropes” article and episode 1 of The High Route Gear Shed Podcast.
Here’s the disclaimer: you’ve got plenty of places on IG and the Interwebs to find tutorials on creating Münters and their hitch brethren, the Super Münter. So, we’ll pass on presenting that here. Climbing and ski-mountaineering are potentially dangerous; learn, practice, and practice more before applying anything discussed here in the field.
Here’s the original reader question: What are your thoughts on just rapping with a Super münter on skinny lines?
Das Münter on a single skinny rope (RAD Line) ...and Neve (good dog Neve).
Das Super Münter on the RAD Line.
Das Münter in a double rope situation (which is most rappel applications), again with the RAD Line.
Thoughts from Adam, Billy, and Gavin
Billy: Yea, good question, I’ve tried it. A few quick thoughts. It totally works and is good to know and use in a pinch. I still prefer a small diameter specific belay device. A Super Münter adds more friction than a standard Münter, but with a really skinny rope (RAD line or Mammut Glacier Cord), we’re talking ~6mm in diameter, it still doesn’t seem to have the same braking control (smooth ride), especially when used with a 3rd hand backup (a friction hitch/autobloc).
The Super Münter “mostly” eliminates the Münter’s twisting issue, but not entirely.
This is important; considerations need to be made for the type of locking carabiner used. Smaller diameter lockers, especially carabiners that don’t have round stock, won’t have nearly as much friction as big HMS round stock carabiners.
Editor’s Note: HMS, short for “Halbmastwurfsicherung” in German, which means half clove hitch belay, and it’s designed with something like the Münter hitch in mind—the carabiners are pear shaped with a wide end that accommodates the hitch.
Billy: At that point, if I’m bringing a big HMS carabiner, the weight issue is probably negligible, and I can do more, better, with my lightweight locker and a skinny rope specific belay device, a Grivel Plume K3N and Petzl Reversino.
For me, it’s mostly preference. However, I should reiterate, the Super Münter is important to know—belay devices get dropped, and for single strands or skinny ropes, it’s the way to go if you don’t have a belay device.
Adam: I think there’s a large difference in holding power between the Münter and Super Münter. 200lb of holding power for the Münter compared to 1000lbs for the Super Münter?
Editor’s Note: Adam is very close. Ropelab.com.au states the following data for the Münter.
“We did some simple tests at RopeLab and found that if using a dry 11mm nylon rope in good condition on a large HMS carabiner then a single brake hand could easily control around 0.9kN in the forward position and 1.2kN in the maximum friction position. With a good stance and two hands on the brake rope these numbers increased to around 1.9kN and 3.4kN. Note that this was what could be held stationary, rather than what could be lowered in a controlled manner.”
The High Route math: 0.9kN=202 lbs and 1.2kN=270 lbs
The same source states this about the Super Münter: “The primary outcome of this is a significant increase in the holding power of this belay. Using the same simple test conditions as described above, the Super Munter could hold around 3.5-4kN with one brake hand and 7.5kN with a good stance and two hands on the brake rope.”
The High Route Math: 3.5kN=787 lbs 4kN=899 lbs.
Gavin: I’ve heard numbers like that, but they seem a bit vague in this context.. probably changes a lot with small ropes.
Billy: Exactly. There is a huge difference with small ropes compared to something like a rescue lower scenario with 11mm ropes and stuff.
Adam: Agreed. Maybe we just find a way to get everyone a Reversino.
Billy: Or convince Petzl to make them again.
Gavin: Or Blue Ice to make something similar.
Adam: Now that’s a good idea!
Billy: Maybe we could call it the Fabricino.
A Grivel Plume and Edelrid Mago 8 device (useful for creating ample friction for skinny rope rappels). The combo weighs 76.4g.
A Camp Nimbus, an HMS carabiner, weighs 69.0g.
Billy: I tried a Super Münter once with our little Grivel lockers, and I was like, “I’m just going to bring my belay device next time.” Because I do think you want a round stock HMS.
Gavin: Yeah, I had a super Münter phase as well—even with an Attaché carabiner or similar, it still feels like a hassle, and ropes still end up twisting.
Billy: Yes I agree. It solves the twisting issue, but just a little bit.
You really need to keep the brake strand in line. Which is basically impossible when rappelling.
Gavin: Fully impossible with a third hand. I’ve got some weights here. A single carabiner, an HMS type, a Camp Nimbus Lock weighs 69g. A Grivel Mago 8 paired with a Grivel Pluma locker weighs 76.4g.
Billy: 7 grams. Damn I’ve been blowing it.
Adam: Here’s a reminder. I had an experience when rappelling on a Münter, that is a reminder to be aware. The Münter’s brake rope ran on the gate side. That’s something to keep an eye on—to establish the Münter with the brake rope running opposite the gate side, even if it is a locker, to eliminate the possibility of the gate opening due to the rope running over the lock.
Do you put any special consideration into the prusik when using skinny ropes? Possible to also elaborate on a single strand rappel and use of an escaper?
Hey Sam, It often takes a bit of care to get a good bite with a prusik/friction hitch backup, especially in a single strand scenario. The escaper is probably worth its own post, but as far as friction hitches, my latest tactic has been using an 8.5″ Blue Water Titan Sling. The flat profile of webbing compared to cord or even sterling hollowblock provides more surface area against the rope so its possible to get a good bit with fewer wraps in the friction hitch. The Blue Water sling is a dyneema/nylon blend, and using it as a rappel backup could compromise its strength due to heat buildup damaging the dyneema, but at 27 kN new, I’m confident it will hold up to rappelling duty for a few seasons.
Hmm, Fabricino does have a certain ring to it…