Subscribe

Crampons for Ski Objectives—The Finer Details

By

Gavin Hess

Booting up from Chasm Lake—a fine position for crampons. Photo: Alex Lee

Booting up from Chasm Lake—a fine position for crampons. Photo: Alex Lee

  Crampons for skiing—a specific niche within the specific niche of crampons. Crampons for skiing are unique for a few reasons:  Ski boots are generally rigid and B3 (full auto) compatible. They are similar to technical climbing boots, however, our skiing objectives are more similar technically to what we may climb in a three season,…

Responses

  1. Ethan Ayer

    THR is really putting out some quality gear articles on the ski mountaineering aspect. It’s been invaluable regarding my own research on skinny ropes, belay devices, and now this. Great work!

  2. Slim

    It’s not “fair” (in the last pic) to weigh the Harfang and Irvis with anti-bots, and the DNA without.

    Related to that, why don’t the Dynafits come with heel anti bots? And why do the Leopards come without any? (But at least you can buy them separately).

    I fave always figured that heel anti bots are the most important. Front points give you more purchase when ascending, no matter what, but heel points naturally penetrate less when descending.

    My thought has always been that for more ice or rock oriented objectives, there is less need for anti bots, since you are using your front points more, and ice and rock don’t pack into your crampon. Meanwhile, more ‘snow’ terrain is where I see the greatest value in antibots, since it can more easily pack into the crampon, and you are more likely using your whole foot on the surface.

    I don’t have a lot of experience with mountaineering though, so do people find that they can often get away without anti bots on the all aluminum snow climb crampons?

    1. Gavin Hess

      The lack of anti-bots on the DNA is certainly an asterisk on the weight. There is an antibot available for the DNA, although as pictured on Skimo.co it looks like only for the front part.

      I’ve always been pro-anti-bots, but this winter, with the variety of crampons I’ve been using, I’m losing faith that they are actually particularly helpful in conditions that are extra conducive to balling up.

  3. Spencer Dillon

    I’ll agree that the strap on the DNA is SUPER junk. I have replaced them with more ‘traditional’ cambuckle crampon straps and found them super secure otherwise ($15 at skimo). The plastic lever feels worrisome, but having put the DNAs through the paces (rock, ice, lots of miles) with the optional anti-bott plates, I am thoroughly impressed. Wish Dynafit sold just the steel Mezzalama toe piece so you run them petzl-style depending on conditions expected. modular crampons are a pretty sweet deal.

  4. Alex Hatcher

    I’ve been putting miles and miles on my Harfang crampons, and I love the big steel frontpoints. But after a few solid seasons, I’ve noticed that the wide heel welts are too broad for my Dynafit ridge boots. The crampons stays on my boot purely by tension between the toe and heel bails, not the welts. It works great if I can keep my pressure on my toes, or pushing forward when downclimbing. If I have to traverse or sidestep as I descend, the heel pops off and I have to put the crampon back on again. Has anyone else experienced and challenges fitting the harfang heel to ski boots? Maybe I go back to Petzl?

Leave a Reply

Latest Features